The S-Word: what socialisation is (and what it isn’t)
Socialisation is certainly one hot topic in the world of dog training and behaviour. It is also at the very top of a new puppy owner's list of priorities. While it's encouraging that there is a growing awareness regarding the importance of socialisation, it's crucial for every puppy owner to grasp the fundamental principles of socialisation because if it’s not done right it can sometimes do more harm than good.
So what IS socialisation?
A definition I like (when I am wearing my geeky dog trainer cap) is this: “Socialisation is about encouraging success in your puppy’s resilience in response to interactions and changes to the world around them” (Errr..what?) In other words….it’s about preparing a puppy for the world they will live in.
It's about learning normal, day to day life; becoming used to the sights, smells, sounds and experiences around them. It's about learning that things they will come across are on the whole safe and are nothing to be afraid of. Not learning to feel safe in their world puts them at risk of being scared of certain things for the rest of their life.
Puppies have what is called a ‘critical socialisation period’ between approximately 4 -16 weeks of age (depending on which text book you read!). The puppy’s experiences during this critical period of learning and development can influence and shape their behaviour well into adulthood. It's during this time that they shape numerous social behavior patterns and gain a substantial amount of knowledge about their surroundings. Much of what puppies absorb during this period tends to leave a lasting imprint on them (either for the better or worse), throughout their lives.
Puppies will be separated from their mother at approximately 8 weeks of age meaning they will spend a significant period of time of their ‘critical socialisation’ period in their place of birth. The care a puppy receives during these early weeks plays a pivotal role in ensuring their development into a confident and well-rounded adult dog. The significance of making a considered choice when selecting a breeder is therefore paramount - responsible breeders should have an established socialisation program in place that should encompass a gradual exposure of the puppy to various sights, smells, and sounds they are likely to encounter in their new home.
Once your puppy joins your home at 8 weeks or later, the responsibility for continuing their socialisation falls squarely on your shoulders. “Yikes” I hear you say! So what should you do and what should you avoid? Read on.
The conventional view of socialisation might be to work through a “checklist” of situations and experiences to make sure the puppy is exposed to a certain number of different people and dogs within the socialisation period. Spoiler alert - Your dog does not need to meet 50 people and 50 dogs a week in order to be well-socialised and confident in adult life and there are risks associated with over-socialisation such as this.
One risk is that the more you open your puppy’s eyes to the world, the more they see the super exciting experiences it has to offer! The pup can then see everything as an exciting experience…then they get older…then we start attaching a lead to them…then they find they no longer have the access and freedom to the exciting opportunities they once did. This can lead to the emotion of frustration. This isn’t a nice emotion for dogs or humans (think of a time you’ve waited longer than expected for that takeaway you were realllllly looking forward to and it was late! Bah!)
Another risk is that the more you expose a puppy to, the more you increase the risk that the puppy will have a bad experience which can result in fears and anxieties. Therefore, as their owner (guardian and superhero!), you play a crucial role in ensuring that your puppy enjoys a multitude of positive experiences. This involves preparing them for success through proactive training, managing what you can control, and recognising when it's appropriate to decline an invitation. After all, you are the one who knows your puppy better than anyone else!
So what should I avoid?
Avoid pressuring your dog into interactions with people or other dogs. Put yourself in your puppy's paws: imagine a world where unfamiliar, towering creatures (humans!) loom over you and prod, poke and pat you - it must be quite frightening! It's vital for owners to become familiar with reading their dog's body language. If your dog exhibits clear signs of unease (tucked tail, flattened ears, shaking when not wet, yawing) then it's advisable to create some physical distance between them and whatever situation they are in. Be your dog’s superhero and kindly request that the strange hairless creature (sorry, human) take a step back and provide your dog with some space.
The same guidelines apply to interactions with other dogs. Allow your puppy to initiate greetings with the other dog in their own time. And err on the side of caution when considering puppy parties. These can range from the good, the bad, to the downright ugly! If you need advice on these, contact a reputable trainer.
Refrain from taking your dog to play with any and every dog you encounter, regardless of whether you think they are compatible in terms of size and play style. Dogs, like people, share similarities– they possess diverse personalities and don't necessarily all get along. While some dogs enjoy robust and lively play, others prefer more passive interactions when in the company of other dogs. If the other dog is significantly larger and more boisterous than your puppy, there's a risk of potential harm. Furthermore, this could lead to your puppy associating other dogs with fear or discomfort, potentially resulting in more behavioural issues in the future.
Refrain from overwhelming your dog with a barrage of experiences in an attempt to make them "get used to it." It's tempting to introduce your puppy to numerous new places and people all at once, but it's important to exercise caution. By nature, pups are primed to store negative events so while it's beneficial to expose your puppy to novel stimuli, it's equally crucial not to inundate them and inadvertently provoke fear, over-stimulation or anxiety instead.
Now, before you worry you have been doing it all wrong, it’s important to note that a puppy’s brain is incredibly malleable. Yipee! If you avoid the conventional (incorrect) approach to socialisation (i.e. that checklist!), you can avoid moulding your pups brain the wrong way and start shaping it the right way. Hurrah.
So, here’s what to do instead:
First and foremost - think quality over quantity. Focus on the quality of the experiences your puppy has rather than trying to fit a certain number of experiences in. Ensure experiences are well managed and your focus is entirely on your puppy. Look at their body language. Rather than permitting people to approach and pet your pup (who can blame people for wanting to fuss over puppies….they are adorable aren’t they?!), request that individuals remain stationary while you place your puppy on the ground (**ensure they have been fully vaccinated before putting them on the ground**), enabling them to approach and greet if they so desire.
Introduce new experiences gradually and let your pup greet things in their own time. If you have a new puppy, one of the most valuable skills you can teach them is to be able to watch the world go by calmly without the need to react or interact. Instead of instantly embarking on a bustling Saturday walk through the town centre, commence with a quieter day and spend some time together sitting on a bench in a less crowded area, simply observing the surroundings.
Hang out in different places with your puppy...at the park, outside a supermarket, in a coffee shop, at a garden centre. Let them watch and reward them for calm behaviour, when they focus on you and when they disengage from distractions. Make sure the option to abort and retreat is easily available.
Establishing positive association. Visiting the vets and groomers can be an intimidating experience for many dogs, since they often involve unpleasant procedures. Be proactive in your training approach and your vet and groomer will thank you! Prior to your initial vet appointment, consider contacting your vet and see if you can make a preliminary visit. If your puppy may not have received their vaccinations yet, you can carry them into the waiting room and spend a few minutes with them on your lap, offering treats to create a positive connection. You could also have the clinic staff provide some treats to your puppy. Aim to keep these sessions brief but consistent.
It is also very important for your pup to get used to being handled and groomed. Groomers will thank you for being so proactive and it will make visits for your pop more enjoyable too. This is one of the first skills I teach in my clever puppy package for this exact reason!
Be patient and let them work at their pace. Bin bags, hairdryers and vacuums are not things we humans would necessarily consider to be scary to puppies. But they can be and I can vouch for the fact our first dog certainly did not like my hairdryer and made his feelings abundantly clear about it! If your puppy wants to take his time when looking at something – allow him to. It's important he decides for himself, in his own time, that something is safe. It is a good way of reducing the risk of him developing fears later in life.
Train life skills The critical socialisation period is a great time to start teaching your puppy some of the essential life skills they will need as an adult. Some of the essential skills I teach as part of my Clever Puppy package are loose-lead walking, focus on you, recall and settle. It’s also good to play with your puppy lots so they learn that you’re a super fun person to be around!
In summary
The world can be quite daunting for a young pup so follow these simple rules:
By going at your dog’s pace and ensuring they have the most positive early life experiences you will be laying a solid foundation for their future.
Think quality over quantity!
Make sure socialisation is at a frequency and intensity your puppy can cope with (learn stress signals)
Appropriate socialisation is not engaging with every person or dog they come across.
The time you spend doing the above in puppyhood will repay you a thousand times over during your life with your puppy.......pinky promise!
If you need help to get your puppy off on the right paw or you need some further guidance on socialisation, I offer several puppy programs. Please click here to find out more.
Enjoy your new puppy!
Sarah-Jane x